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Paris fits into 105 km² — a tenth of London — and that compactness changes everything: you walk from one monument to the next, and the twenty arrondissements coil outwards in a snail's spiral from the Louvre. The city reads better by neighbourhood than by landmark: the Marais and its mansions, Montmartre on its hill, the Latin Quarter and its bookshops, Belleville and its artist studios. Since 2024 the Olympics have left behind a swimmable Seine and 1,000 km of cycle lanes.
Twenty arrondissements spiralling out from the centre. The Right Bank holds business, the Marais and the department stores; the Left Bank the universities, Saint-Germain and the Musée d'Orsay.
45 minutes on the RER C, Louis XIV's palace and its 800 hectares of gardens. The most popular day trip from Paris — arrive at opening or late afternoon.
45 minutes by TGV, the capital of Champagne. The cathedral where French kings were crowned, and cellars open for tastings.
An hour and a quarter via Vernon, Claude Monet's house and gardens, with the water lily pond and the Japanese bridge. Open April to November.
An hour southeast, a château lived in by French rulers for seven centuries, bordered by a forest famous for bouldering.
330 metres, built in 1889 for the World's Fair and meant to be dismantled after twenty years. Book online: summit tickets sell out weeks ahead in season.
The most visited museum on earth, 35,000 works across 73,000 m². Seeing all of it is a fantasy: pick two wings. The Carrousel and Porte des Lions entrances are far less congested.
The hill kept its cobbled lanes, its vineyard and its last windmill. The basilica looks out over Paris from the city's highest point; Place du Tertre, just behind, is heavily touristed.
Housed in a 1900 railway station, it holds the world's largest Impressionist collection: Monet, Degas, Renoir, Van Gogh. Many visitors prefer it to the Louvre for its more human scale.
The best-preserved quarter of pre-Haussmann Paris, spared the boulevards cut through the city in the 19th century. Private mansions, Place des Vosges, the Picasso Museum, and the one district where almost everything opens on Sunday.
Temperate oceanic: mild grey winters, warm rather than hot summers, rain spread across the year. Summer heatwaves have intensified markedly over the past decade.
April to June and September to October: comfortable temperatures, gardens in bloom or autumn colour, and fewer crowds than midsummer.
August, when many shops and restaurants close for the holidays, and late July for the heat. November and February are the greyest months.
The best season. Chestnut trees in bloom, terraces reopening. Bring a jacket: showers remain frequent.
Very long days, with light until 10 pm. Heatwaves are possible and older buildings rarely have air conditioning.
September is excellent, with the cultural season reopening and Heritage Days. The weather turns noticeably in November.
Grey and damp rather than freezing, dark by 5 pm. Empty museums, Christmas markets, and the lowest hotel rates of the year.
Paris is safe in terms of violence but ranks among the European capitals worst affected by pickpocketing. The risk is almost entirely that: pockets and bags, not assaults. Tourist districts stay busy until late.
Extra care around Barbès, Château-Rouge, Stalingrad and near the Gare du Nord at night. On the underground, lines 1 and 4 and the RER B to the airport account for most thefts.
Activate your ZapSim eSIM before you fly — connected the moment you land at Roissy, so you can buy your RER ticket without queuing at a counter.
Get my eSIMRoissy-Charles-de-Gaulle: RER B to the centre in 35 min (€11.80), Roissybus to Opéra in 60 min, flat-fare taxi at €56 to the Right Bank and €65 to the Left Bank. Orly: tram T7 or Orlyval, and metro line 14 now serves the airport directly in 25 min. Beauvais, used by low-cost carriers, is an hour and a quarter away by shuttle.
The metro is the fastest way around: 16 lines, a station every 500 metres, running until 1:15 am on weekdays and 2:15 am at weekends. The rechargeable Navigo Easy card has replaced paper tickets. Paris is also very walkable, and easy by Vélib' on the cycle lanes left over from 2024.
A Navigo Jour pass or a topped-up Navigo Easy costs less than single tickets from the third journey onwards. Note that airport journeys are charged separately and are not covered by the day pass.
💡 Coffee costs half as much standing at the counter as it does on the terrace, and the law requires both prices to be displayed. The lunch formule — starter and main, or main and dessert — gets you into very good kitchens for €20-25; the same meal in the evening costs double.
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